It takes a lot of time and patience to get exactly right, and making the numbers fully center in the little windows might require deep disassembly of the prism housing to access the pulleys and display wheels. It is possible to loosen some tiny screws and washers in the prism shutter/asa assembly to adjust display position + relative film speed, but I wouldn't advise DIY for that unless you're familiar with camera repair. Good functional F2S meter prisms have become scarce: if this one is good, and the finder shutter/aperture displays are not WAY off, consider just living with it. If this F2S is otherwise in excellent working condition, the meter circuit passes the above tests, and you feel the price was reasonable: keep it. (Getting similar capabilities from a newer F2SB or F2AS costs nearly double.) The F2S has some nice features like ability to read down to -2 EV low light, and the meter arrow lamps automatically lighting up the shutter and aperture displays indoors or in dim situations.
There is a resistor in the shutter/ASA dial that can sometimes oxidize or wear: check that exposure readings match another reference camera or phone meter app, and that changing shutter speeds, film speeds or apertures results in just a single lamp being steadily lit (again, flickering is a bad sign). The most important functional issue to look for in the DP2 prism (F2S) is whether both meter lamps work, are of equal brightness when both are lit to indicate correct exposure, and are lit steadily (no constant flickering).
This was tolerated in exchange for the tremendous versatility the camera offered with finders, meters and screens. Shifting the film speed setting slightly will often do the trick.
#NIKON F2 VIEWFINDER HOW TO#
But since they're manual exposure, with use you quickly get a feel for how to accurately interpret the "sloppy" reading and shutter/aperture haptics, so the system actually works rather well. Hard as it is to believe, these once top-of-the-line, uber-pro, very expensive cameras could have meter prism variances as much as a stop. And the inherent design of the prism shutter dial to camera shutter speed knob coupling includes up to a half stop of "slop" or play anyway. A slightly offset aperture or shutter finder display has a minimal effect on exposure accuracy. None of this is absolutely crucial in a "user" F2 camera. There are multiple interaction points where tolerances can drift slightly, and serviced prisms may have been knocked slightly out of alignment. The display numbers are on tiny translucent mylar discs, as rodeo_joe mentioned these are mechanically operated by tiny pulleys connected to the prism controls and aperture coupling. It isn't unusual for the aperture or shutter display to be a bit crooked or imprecise in the F2 pre-AI Photomic prisms (DP1, DP2, DP3).
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